In the former workshop of Mrs. Letourneau (one of the last authentic workshops in the Croix Rousse), Soierie Vivante exhibits impressive weaving looms carved from the wood of a walnut tree. Two of the looms have not moved since they were first set up in the 19th century (Mrs. Letourneau has woven stripes for the army on these looms), the third loom is a “new“ one: this loom arrived rue Richan in 2008, and our volonteers are currently reparing it. It dates back to the 19th century, and it was used to weave figured patterns. This incredible technique was in use in the Croix Rousse throughout the 19th century. The city of Lyon bought the loom thanks to Soierie Vivante, it used to belong to M. Dumas, who was a weaver in the Loire region (he’s now retired).
Come and see the looms working in front of you! Discover the weaver’s secrets and the genius of Jacquard’s discovery.
Guided tours from Tuesday to Saturday at 2pm and 4pm or by reservation (check the fares).
Mrs. Letourneau
Mrs. Letourneau was born Henriette Dunoyer, in 1912. She died in 2005.
Her father (Jean-Claude Dunoyer) came from the Saone et Loire region and settled on the Croix Rousse hill, and more precisely rue Richan in 1906. He fitted his workshop with 3 trimming looms, which dated back to 1870. At this time, these looms were handlooms, but M. Dunoyer soon installed them with electric motors. Henriette had two elder brothers, but unfortunately they died during WW1 very soon after her birth. Before the war, the brothers worked along with their father in the trimming workshop. However from 1925 on, Henriette took over from her brothers and helped her father run the trimming workshop.... She worked in this workshop for 54 years, sometimes she had to stand in front of the looms for 12 hours. She married M. Letourneau, who helped her run the workshop. A few years later, they managed to buy the workshop . In 1976, she was awarded the prize of “best worker” in France, and received a golden medal.
Mrs. Letourneau used to work for suppliers located in Lyon (the maison Duviard, for example) and supplied them with Church ornaments or military stripes, which were then sent throughout the world! But when she retired in 1978 they were only 5 trimming weavers left in the Croix Rousse (they were 1500 in 1928).
She had to fight for 15 years to prevent the closure of her workshop, and opened it to the public in 1993 with the help of the city of Lyon.
Trimmings:
Trimmings are manufactured narrow pieces of fabric, such as bandings, braids,or stripes. They can be used to decorate clothes, fabrics or furniture (embrodery, cords, etc ...).
One large loom usually consists of about 18 mini looms. Each mini loom has its own warp threads, which come from the back of the machine, and are held in place by weights, bobbins and reeds. The weaft thread is located at the front of the loom, and is led by a shuttle. The warp threads let the weaft thread pass through them perpendicularly, from side to side.
The way, in which the threads are crossed, forms a pattern. The order, in which the warp threads are raised to allow the weaft thread to pass between them, is dictated by a punched card. This card is placed on top of the loom, and the indications given by the card are read by the Jacquard mechanism. The Jacquard mechanism has a system of vertical hooks, that pick up the appropriate warp threads when the card gives the order to lift them. The punched card gives the design line by line, and each new side of the card indicates a different opening for the warp threads, so that the shuttle can be launched in the space created.
The richness of the materials used (threads covered with gold or silver) adds to the quality of the product.
