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| Age |
Period of time, which defines each of the four metamorphosis of the silk worm |
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Bobbin |
a reel, cylinder, or spool, upon which yarn or thread is wound, which is then placed in the shuttle in order to weave the fabric. |
| Bobbin making |
With the help of a bobbin maker, the threads are wound around small bobbins, which will then be placed inside the shuttle, to weave the weft thread. |
| Bombyx mori |
Name given to the butterfly which evolves from the silk worm (first discovered in China) |
Brocatelle |
Lampas characterised by a 'high relief' satin design on a plain satin fabric. |
Brocaded |
Figured fabrics created with small shuttles, the motif of which is embossed by a supplementary weft thread. It gives the appearence of an embroidered fabric. |
Canut |
A silk weaving worker in Lyon |
| Chiffon |
a sheer fabric of silk, nylon or rayon in plain weave |
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Damask |
a reversible figured fabric, usually made from linen, silk, cotton, or wool, woven with patterns (two different weaves are used) |
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Educator |
Someone who raises silk worms |
Embroidery |
the art of stitching raised and ornamental designs in threads of silk, cotton, gold, silver, or other material, upon any woven fabric, leather, paper, etc., with a needle. |
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Fibroin |
The main component of silk |
Figured fabric |
A high relief fabric created by the crossing of the warp threads and the weft threads |
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Handloom |
a loom operated manually, unlike a power loom |
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Lampas |
A figured fabric with a backgroud weft, usually in taffeta or twill (a second binding warp is necessary) |
Lea |
Threads which haven’t been put on a bobbin |
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Moiré fabric |
A watered, clouded, or frosted appearance on textile fabrics or metallic surfaces |
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Pebrine |
an infectious disease that affects silkworms, characterized by a black spotting of the integument and by stunted growth, caused by the protozoan Nosema bomycis |
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Reading |
Reading is the activity, which takes place between the design of a graph card, and the creation of a punched card |
Reel |
Taking the continuous silk thread from the cocoon of a silk worm |
Reel machine |
Machine, which helps the reeling of the threads |
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Sericiculture |
Taking care of the silk worms |
| Sericin |
Silk glue that surrounds the fibroin |
Setting up |
Setting up indicates the preparation of the loom; it’s a specialist who carries out this task |
Silkscreen |
a print technique, in which a mesh cloth is stretched over a heavy wooden frame and the design, painted on the screen by tusche or affixed by stencil, is printed by having a squeegee force color through the pores of the material in areas not blocked out by a glue sizing |
Silk culture house |
The name of the place where the silk worms are raised |
Silk road |
An ancient trade route between China and the Mediterranean Sea extending some 6,440 km (4,000 mi) and linking China with the Roman Empire. Marco Polo followed the route on his journey to Cathay. |
Slime |
Name given to the silk thread produced by the silk worm |
Spinning |
A step, which is carried out by a man or a machine. The process of removing the silk threads from the boiling water |
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Tapestry |
a fabric consisting of a warp upon which colored threads are woven by hand to produce a design, often pictorial, used for wall hangings, furniture coverings, etc |
| Thread knot |
interweaving of threads, which takes place at the moment when the threads are spun |
Threshing |
Step, which consists of the beating of the cocoons in boiling water so that the thread unravels |
Throwing |
Twisting of the threads to make them stronger (150 to 1500 twists per metre) |
Transferral onto a graph card |
Before a punched card is created, we need to put it on a graph card. Each small crossing of the card corresponds to the crossing of the warp thread and the weft thread. This is a very long process to create such a card. |
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Velvet |
a fabric of silk, nylon, acetate, rayon, etc., sometimes having a cotton backing, with a thick, soft pile formed of loops of the warp thread either cut at the outer end or left uncut |
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Warp |
Warp is the weaving term for the strong, long threads that go lengthwise along the weaving (and are usually tied down onto the loom). The weft thread is the thread that goes back and forth winding around the warp threads |
Warp printed |
Printed fabric, where one warp thread out of two is taken out to reweave it. This creates a blurred effect |
Warping |
This step is the preparation of the warp threads. Each bobbin, which contains the warp will be taut with the same tension. It’s a very important step. |
| Weave |
There are three fundamental weaves: plain weave, twill and satin. A weave is defined by the crossing of the warp and the weft threads |
Weaving |
to interlace (threads, yarns, strips, fibrous material, etc.) so as to form a fabric or material |
Weft |
The horizontal threads interlaced through the warp in a woven fabric
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