The history

 

Weaving techniques

 

Glossary

 
Weaving

Weaving is the result of the crossing of two kinds of threads: warp threads are longitudinal, taut, and they come from the back of the loom. They make the framework of the fabric.
The weft thread comes perpendicularly in a shuttle, which is launched from one side of the loom to the other. The way in which the threads are crossed is called a “weave”. There are three fundamental weaves: plain weave, twill and satin weave.

 
     
The handloom

The weaver used a foot pedal in order to operate this loom. When he stepped on the pedal, a selection of warp threads were lifted (the  warp threads are imprisoned by glass rings) thanks to the Jacquard mechanism. A space was then created between the warp threads that were lifted, and the others that didn't move. This space was used by the shuttle to pass between the warp threads. The shuttle was moved by hand, by the weaver, by pulling a cord which was in front of him. Once the weft thread had passed through the warp threads, a reed packed the weft thread against the fabric. All of these movements together were called “bistanclac” or “bistanclaque pan”:

-BIS : the weaver lifts the warp threads by putting his foot on the pedal
-TAN –CLAC : the shuttle containing the weft thread is launched between the warp threads
-PAN : the reed moves to pack the weft thread against the fabric

Each warp thread was passed through a glass ring. These needles were linked to neck cords, which were attached the to hooks on the Jacquard mechanism. Each hook is itself was linked to a horizontal needle, which came in contact with a punched card:
-if the needle met the hole of the punched card, it went into the Jacquard mecanism . The hook would then move forward, and would be picked up by a bar, which was pulled up, in order to lift the selected warp threads.
-if the needle met the card, the hook didn’t move and no thread was lifted.

Each side of the card corresponded to one order, which meant the movement of the shuttle in one direction. The punched card dictated the design line by line: a whole loop of cards corresponded to a whole design. This card was placed on a circuit to be read line by line by the Jacquard mechanism. It could be endless! About 30 sides of punched card was the equivalent of one centimetre of fabric. A weaver was capable of carrying out about 100 movements per minute, so he could produce about 5 metres of fabric par day.

 

  métier à bras
The Jacquard mechanism

The Jacquard mechanism takes its name from its inventor, Joseph-Marie Jacquard. In 1801, Joseph-Marie Jaquard invented this mechanism, which replaced the children's task of pulling packs of cords, which lifted the warp threads. The Jacquard mechanism works by a series of vertical metallic hooks, which lift the appropriate cords (and the appropriate warp threads) dictated by the punched card, which decides on the design.

  jacquard
     
The chameleon

The chameleon is a taffeta fabric (plain fabric) with changing sheens, because there are three colours used: one colour for the warp, and two colours for the weft. The shuttle has two weft threads, which are exactly parallel. The weaver has to be very precise and accurate.

 

 
     
Figured weaving

Figured weaving was more complex task (Damask, Lampas, etc). The Jacquard mechanism was essential in order to weave such fabrics (it was placed on top of the loom, that is why these looms could reach up to 4 metres in height). The design was transferred onto a punched card. The punched card was the brain of the loom, it decided what warp threads were to be lifted and gave its order to the mechanism. Each warp thread was linked to a needle which was connected to a neck cord, which had a metallic hook at the top, which came into contact with the Jacquard mechanism. Each hook is itself was linked to a horizontal needle, which came into contact with a punched card:
--if the needle met the hole of the punched card, it went into the Jacquard mecanism . The hook would then move forward, and would be picked up by a bar, which was pulled up, in order to lift the selected warp threads.
-if the needle met the card, the hook didn’t move and no thread was lifted.

 

Most of the looms that we exhibit in our workshops are fitted with this system. Mr Mattelon’s loom is exceptional, because it has two Jacquard mechanism working side by side: one of them controls the background of the piece, and the other controls the figured design. The punched card containing the design dates back to the beginning of the 19th century.

   
Trimmings weaving

Trimmings are manufactured narrow fabrics such as bandings, braids,or stripes. These narrow fabrics can be used to decorate clothes, fabrics or furniture (embrodery, cords, etc ...).
One trimming loom usually contained numerous mini looms positioned side by side. Each mini loom had its own warp threads, coming from the back of the machine, which were held in position by weights, bobbins and reeds. The weft thread was found at the front of the loom and was guided by a shuttle. The warp threads separated, allowing the weft thread to pass through them perpendicularly, from left to right.
The richness of the materials used (threads covered with gold or silver) added to the quality of the product.
Even if the trimming loom had an electric motor, the weaver had to be very careful and constantly check the level of remaining thread in the bobbins.
Imagine how careful the weaver had to be when they had to keep track of 16, 32 or 48 pieces at the same time (if they own one, two or three looms).

  passementerie
     
   
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